The Story of Julian Dunkerton: How a Market Stall Seller Built Superdry

Julian Dunkerton’s journey from a market stall in Cheltenham to building the global brand Superdry. A story of vision, resilience, and staying true.

Julian Dunkerton didn’t grow up dreaming of fashion. At 19, he was just a young man in Cheltenham, running a market stall selling vintage clothes that stood out from the usual high street offerings.

It wasn’t glamorous, but Julian had an instinct. He knew what people liked, what made them feel good.

And he had something else too—a restlessness, a drive to create something bigger.

Cult Clothing and the Spark That Lit the Fire

In 1985, Julian opened Cult Clothing, a shop that quickly became more than just a place to buy clothes. It was a vibrant hub of youth culture, with loud music, bold fashion, and a unique vibe that appealed to students across the UK.

Cult Clothing wasn’t just selling clothes; it was selling an experience. The shop’s edgy style, combined with affordable prices, struck a chord with young people who wanted to stand out but not break the bank.

Cult Clothing became a staple in university towns, reflecting a shift in British youth fashion and culture. Julian wasn’t just selling; he was creating a community. But he wasn’t satisfied. The fashion world was evolving, and Julian wanted to do something new—something that broke the mould.

The Birth of Superdry: A Blend of Cultures

A turning point came when Julian met James Holder, the founder of skatewear brand Bench. Together, they began to dream bigger. Inspired by a trip to Tokyo, they were captivated by the streetwear scene—a bold mix of Japanese graphics and vintage American styles.

This fusion sparked an idea: why not combine the graphic appeal of Tokyo streetwear with the comfort and cool of American vintage? And so, Superdry was born in 2003.

Superdry’s first store opened in Covent Garden in 2004, and it was clear from the start that this was no ordinary shop. The walls were filled with graphic tees, bomber jackets, and hoodies, each piece feeling like a small statement. The designs were sharp, the quality undeniable, and the brand quickly developed a cult following.

The real breakthrough came in 2007, when David Beckham was seen wearing a Superdry leather jacket.

Sales soared, and suddenly Superdry was on the map. Celebrities like Jamie Oliver and Kate Moss were spotted in Superdry, and it seemed like everyone wanted a piece of this fresh, dynamic label. Julian had done it—Superdry wasn’t just a brand; it was a movement.

Rising and Falling: The Challenges of Success

By 2010, Superdry went public, and the brand’s unique style was everywhere. Julian, who had always been deeply involved in the brand’s direction, felt the pressure of rapid growth. In 2015, he stepped back from the day-to-day running of the company, and the reins were handed over to new management.

But without Julian’s vision, Superdry began to lose its way. The company made strategic decisions that prioritised efficiency over creativity, and slowly, the brand’s identity began to blur.

The heart of Superdry—the bold designs, the commitment to quality—seemed to fade as the brand struggled to keep up with changing markets. By 2019, Superdry was in trouble, and Julian knew he had to step back in.

Julian’s return wasn’t just a quiet comeback. It followed a shareholder revolt and a boardroom reshuffle that shook the company. He fought his way back to the top, determined to revive the brand he’d built from the ground up. This wasn’t just about saving a business; it was personal.

A New Focus: Sustainability and Staying True

Back at the helm, Julian refocused Superdry on what had always made it special. He pushed the brand to cut back on discounts, bringing back the emphasis on quality, design, and the original ethos of Superdry.

He also made sustainability a key part of the brand’s future, introducing initiatives that aligned with changing consumer values. From using organic cotton to exploring innovative recycling methods, Julian wanted Superdry to stand for more than just fashion.

Financial challenges still loomed large. In the year ending April 2023, Superdry reported a pre-tax loss of £148.1 million, highlighting the uphill battle Julian faced in turning the company around. But for Julian, it wasn’t just about the numbers.

It was about restoring the soul of Superdry and reconnecting with the customers who had once loved the brand.

The Cultural Impact of Superdry

Superdry’s influence on British fashion is undeniable. It helped shape the streetwear movement, blending cultures and styles in a way that resonated with young people. The brand’s unisex appeal, bold graphics, and commitment to quality set it apart in a crowded market.

Even as it navigated ups and downs, Superdry maintained its connection to a generation looking for something different.

Julian’s journey is more than just a business story—it’s about passion, resilience, and staying true to your vision. From the market stalls of Cheltenham to the global fashion scene, Julian Dunkerton’s path was never straightforward, but it was always driven by a love of creating something meaningful.

Today, Superdry stands as a testament to that journey. It’s a brand that continues to evolve but never forgets its roots. For Julian, it’s not just about the clothes—it’s about the people who wear them, the stories they tell, and the feeling of being part of something bigger. Julian Dunkerton’s legacy isn’t just stitched into the fabric of Superdry; it’s woven into the lives of those who connect with the brand every day.

References:

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